It's my party and I'll wear what I want to...
The vexed question of costuming
By Ishtar
What I wear has always been a way for me to express my individuality. I love the costumes that some of the big Middle Eastern dance stars wear. They look so glamorous and sexy. I find it fascinating that some people in the UK may be fans of such dance divas, yet be critical of those of us who like to wear similar archetypal costumes in the west.
The Middle East is East contains a variety of cultures all with different dress codes and social norms and values. Often life is hard especially in rural areas. Beladi clothing is a response to the landscape, the culture, available materials and so on. How many Western women whilst enjoying themselves in oriental' traditional' village dress fantasy, consider the hardships and oppressions of their Arab sisters? If dance is a reflection and response to life how can one ever be 'authentic' if living in a totally different culture/geographical location?
When we talk of 'traditional' we must make sure we have a deep and penetrating understanding of that particular tradition. The two-piece cabaret costume adored by some, looked down on as western unauthentic trash by others, is in fact similar in design to paintings of ancient Indian temple dancers (who are the spiritual descendants of modern belly dancing). It is traditional in the sense that is how most of the world perceives public Middle Eastern dance. Costume is in part a response to what materials are available (Some tribes have even use coke lids as adornment).
The cabaret costume enhances and emphasises the hypnotic and mesmeric effects of the dance. Indeed good cabaret dancing requires more skill, strength and improvised response than some folk dance. Folk dance is meant to be an expression of community values, a condensation of the lives of the people. Very powerful in the right context it is often participatory. I wonder how this translates across the geographic climate and cultural and even linguistic gulf that separate British and Middle Eastern culture?
It intrigues me how people seem to think they are more like the 'real thing' if they wear tribal costume which looks sort of like the Ouled Nail. I wonder how a conglomerate of different dance styles condenses in one uniform, which is actually very conservative, i.e.- every one seems to have to look the same. There seems to be no room for deviation or innovation. The other good girl outfit seems to be the circle skirt and leotard uniform. (What Middle Eastern tribe did that originate from?) I love all kinds of ethnic clothes but I don't think that when I wear them I am better person/dancer.
I am interested in the phenomena of policing of women by women .I am not a Muslim - some of my close friends are, they love dancing and from these close relationships, I have learnt a lot about Arab culture and society. I met some women at the school where our children attended, they had heard I was Turkish and a belly dancer. For a time we would meet once a week for lunch and belly dancing. It amazes me how the same things come up in their culture (related to dancing) as do in British belly dance circles. Arab women suffer from the green eyed monster just as much as we do, they some times admire and resent good dancers. One friend a very attractive and immaculate woman is know amongst local Arab women as being a fantastic 'belly dancer' (that's how they describe it). She is too. Her style is like the old Egyptian stars, like them she is always dignified. She was told recently at an all woman wedding to stop dancing by an Islamic fundamentalist, to which she boldly replied 'If you don't like it don't look.' A lot of Arab weddings are women only. It is considered haram by some cultures to dance in the presence of men, apart from their husband. This is because Arab men and women are very aware of women's sexuality much more than western people -a thesis advocated succinctly by Fatima Mernissi. Many of them consider the dance to be sexy. Arab women are sexy, with their long dark hair, big gentle brown eyes, olive skin and proud way of moving. And sometimes this is what they are 
expressing.
Increasingly nowadays weddings are held with no music or dancing. In the last ten years people are wearing the hijab more often- even at weddings. The religion is changing and getting stricter. I have attended many Arab weddings both as a guest and as a dancer. They are so much fun. What I love about eastern women is you can get past formalities quickly and end up going really deep. At these social gatherings I have had many amazing conversations.
My Arab friends (and my Asian and Mediterranean friends) always say that I am not like an English woman because I am warm and passionate. I have never seen people at a 'hafla' really let go and be in the moment like Arab women at their parties. However some people are as competitive and judgmental as women are everywhere. All types of women from all cultures police each other (particularly about clothes, appearance and moral conduct). Only strong women are really able to liberate themselves from the restrictions of what the 'tribe' want them to be, to not care what 'they' will think. My spiritual and political views contra-indicate judgement of others in this way. I don't like people judging me, so I try not to judge others. I don't concern myself with what other people are wearing because it is none of my business. I am not a Muslim so I do not have to conform to that religion's dress and behaviour codes. It is hard for Muslim dancers to reconcile their religion with public displays of dancing. I think this is shame, because there are some amazing dancers that most people never get to see. I want everyone to be free to express his or her beauty and truth. I have danced in two piece costumes (which was requested of me) at Arab weddings (no men) and people have behaved shocked and kind of pretended not to look. In secret other people have complimented me. And asked for my number.
In this one world melting pot of cultures where populations move to other geographical locations, bringing their cultures and traditions with them, satellite TV, the Internet etc, we all find ourselves exposed and educated by each other. My friend community activist and public speaker Fiazer Al-asay, describes belly dance as a 'cultural embracing' stressing that it is a way to share culture. We have to accept, whilst enjoying the experience of learning dances from the Middle East; we can never as British people are totally 'authentic'. So-called 'belly dancing' is the only one that is often practiced in urban environments, often for money ,that to me is a sort of universal style. Perhaps some of the attitudes associated with style and costuming reflect British prudery, rather than a deference to Islamic fundamentalism. .Admittedly in places like Turkey touristic belly dancing can be lewd and overtly sexual. If this is how poor women are making money to feed their families then good luck to them. In the past Middle Eastern dance has been practised nude and semi-nude and linked to prostitution. Any takers for this particular aspect of '
Traditional' dance?
Whilst people may criticise and judge people on their choice of costume, (which is often really just female jealousy) perhaps they should be a little less fluffy in their priorities and expend this energy looking at the injustices in the Arab world inflicted by the West. For example, the terrible injustices that are being done to the Palestinians, the situation in Iraq etc. These are issues that matter.
I wear what I think suits my body. When my body changes I will change what I wear. I love dancing - my Grandparents were both world champion dancers. I believe in being myself at all times .Dancing for me has always been about pleasure and making myself and others feel happy. In my dancing I aim to come from my truth and my light. My style is inspired by all the amazing dancers I have seen on videos and those I have met in the secret and feminine world of Arab women's culture. All this is coming through the lens of a western woman going for a Madonna attitude! So, if you don't like it, don't look!
'Mosaic' Arabic Dance Magazine: Summer 2004
Paula Ishtar